The Mullerthal Trail (2020)
HIking through gorgeous Little Switzerland

Due to Covid-19, the usual holiday destinations are suddenly inaccessible, but the desire for adventure remains. So, like many other Dutch people, I looked closer to home and traveled to Luxembourg. In Echternach, right on the border with Germany, two of the three loops of the Mullerthal Trail start. The area is nicknamed ‘Little Switzerland’ and especially Mullerthal itself certainly lives up to that name.

Day 1: Loop 1 - Echternach - Moersdorf, 17 km

The trail starts in the village square, where a carousel quietly waits children and the terraces are still empty this early in the morning. The few people I meet are wearing face masks, medical blue or colorful homemade. From the signpost with countless routes and way markings I hike past the beautiful Gothic, 15th century town hall, which is still half in the shade. Via the Abbey Museum I go to a city park with mini golf course and end up at the Sure, the border river with Germany. On the other side is a huge camp site, with caravans almost bumper to bumper in the grass, no hedge or bush in between them. I am more interested in the water, which swiftly flows across the rocks, and the birds. The river is a perfect place for kingfishers, but for now I only see a few yellow wagtails. The path along the river ends after a kilometer or two at the N10 to Wasserbillig. On the other side of the road I start to climb and soon the first rocks appear, towering and impressive. There are steps of stones and boulders, the path undulates up and down and every now and then I hear a woodpecker tapping on wood. I take a deep breath and am satisfied. This is what I came for. At a meadow I have a beautiful view of the valley and vineyards in Germany and even though it’s still early, I sit down on a bench to enjoy the scenery. The trail follows the border river from a distance to the outskirts of Rosport. Fortunately I don't have to go far into the village, but climb back up after a few streets to Chateau Tudor. Here is a museum dedicated to Henri Tudor, an engineer with a passion for electricity and inventor of the car battery. I mainly wonder: family of? Through the park and then I climb to a forest road. The rocks have temporarily left me and the forest road winds along the hill. I swing along. Girsterklaus is a hamlet. The church seems to be special, but I am not very religious and pass it by. Further on I pass a brook, the Girsterbach, whose wide stone bed suggests much more water than the thin steam that stagnates in a few puddles. The ford with stepping stones is bone dry and the second brook, which I cross three times in quick succession, does not contain any water. In the spring, when the water flows freely, it must be beautiful here. Just before Born I descend sharply and for a moment I wonder whether I should follow the M1 to the village here. But the houses come too soon and I hike on for a while. Now some fun again, a grassy path between meadows and through pine forest. The exit to Moersdorf, when it comes, is well signposted, just like the rest of the trail. Seven hundred meters later I am at the bus stop, back to Echternach. A beautiful first day on the Mullerthal Trail.

Day 2: Loop 1 - Moersdorf - Echternach, 20 km
After a considerable climb out of the village, I am back on the Mullerthal Trail. The forest road continues to climb for a while, but makes a wide loop after the first ridge. The top of the hill is bare. Yellow meadows, fields with corn stalks from last year, fallow fields and a few high windmills. I can look beautifully into the distance, but the landscape is too neat, too cultivated. My lust for rugged nature is unsatisfied. I meander across the hill, except for a single grassy path everything is asphalt. The kilometers hike away nice and fast. After Mompach there’s forest, where piles of split wood are piled high along the forest road. I run into some other hikers, but not many. There is a blue face mask in the grass along the path. Even here, in the middle of the forest, I cannot escape corona. In Herborn there’s also forest, deciduous forest and pine forest that reminds me of home. Shortly after having rested at a forest hut for a while, I descend steeply to Lake Echternach, an artificial lake surrounded by recreation area. A beautiful avenue with a fast-flowing stream along it brings me back to the center. This second day is not worth taking a detour for, but I'm outside and that's the most important.

Day 2: Loop 2 - Echternach - Mullerthal, 12 km
 Sitting idle? What is that? Now that I am back in Echternach this early I immediately follow the first half of the second loop. In the middle of Echternach a path of cobblestones starts to climb and it turns out that I am already on the outskirts of the city. The city noises fade away and soon I am surrounded by nature. The first rocks appear and on this popular route I meet more hikers. Pretty soon I come to Wolfslucht, where stone steps descend into a dim gorge and rise again. The rocks are pleasantly cool on this summer day and the gorge makes me impatient for more. The stones around me remain spectacularly beautiful, irregularly shaped and worn. This is everything I was hoping for. A dry stream bed cuts through the route and I wonder how much nicer spring is when water flows everywhere here. Then I come to Huel Lee, a sandstone carved cavern where millstones where cutin the Midde Ages. The round shapes of the millstones are clearly recognizable in the walls and ceiling of the cave. The cave is a tourist attraction and for a moment I am surrounded by people, but when I continue past the open-air theater it quickly becomes quiet again. After Berndorf there is a detour, which surprises me. The storm that destroyed large parts of the trail was two years ago, right? However, the path to the gorge is cordoned off with a red and white tape, although it still looks very passable. But maybe that is not the case further up the trail and instead of entering the exciting gorge, the detour takes me up along the top through the pine forest. Well, at least I’ll have a good reason to come back here in the spring in a few years time. After about two kilometers I get back to the original route and continue towards Mullerthal. The rocks are getting less and I notice that I have less of an eye for the natural beauty and my thoughts are more on the timetable of the bus, which only runs three times a day. Mullerthal is not a village, you cannot even call it a hamlet. It is a bend in the road with two hotels and a campground. And two bus stops. Unfortunately, the bus that could have brought me directly to Echternach does not show up due to road works, but another bus with 1 transfer takes me back to Echternach.

Day 3: Loop 2 + loop C: Mullerthal - Echternach, 30 km
The fastest bus connection is that of 06.20 am, so it is lucky I am wide awake at 05.00 hours. When I get out in Mullerthal, it is only just morning. After a short stretch of forest I come to the Schiessentümpel, a waterfall across which the water tumbles down in three separate streams. The waterfall is the hallmark of the Mullerthal and without hesitation I splash through the shallow stream to take the best possible picture. Only from the rock right in front of the waterfall I see that there is also a staircase going down from the fern-covered bridge. I see a dipper, a rare bird in the Netherlands, clearly recognizable by its white throat. As soon as it sees me, the bird flees and disappears into the distance. From the bridge, loops two and three each go in different directions. I cross the road and follow the loop two’s route through the forest. The traffic is never far away, the raging sound a constant attack on my senses. Fortunately there are rocks, narrow stairs between tons of stone. A couple is struggling with backpacks, I barely fit through. A flashlight is recommended for one pass. Not too bad, I think, as daylight far above slightly light my feet. And then I turn a corner and it’s pitch black. Almost fifty meters long I am very happy to have my flashlight. At the next rocky outcrop is an extra, adventurous 200 meters loop. Of course I won’t skip it. There’s a beautiful passage between the rocks, under a huge boulder wedged between the rocks. Then back through a narrow gorge where I need the flashlight again. Now this makes me happy. Finally, there is silence in the vicinity of Consdorf. I hear a nuthatch and other birds. The extra loop is disappointing. There is a lot of asphalt, some forest, an old railway. Only an old railway tunnel is very nice. At Altrier I walk into a field to a millennial oak that looks like it won't live to 1001 years. There are leaves only on a few branches and a small Lady chapel is located in the hollow trunk. Next to the oak is a staircase and I descend into a hidden world of trees and stones, a deep gorge you would not imagine here at all. The loop travels along the main trail a few kilometers, so I hike those kilometers twice, which is something I'm not fond of. In the end it turns out to be quite a long day when I reach the forest above Echternach and descend across the same cobblestones to the town center.

Day 4: Loop 3 - Mullerthal - Larochette, 18 km
At 18 km it is a lazy day today, which I feel like after a few longer days. Again I start with the kilometer to the Schiessentümpel and although I keep an eye out for the dipper, I don't see it this time. This time I cross the bridge and follow the path through the forest to a staircase attached to a cliff with sturdy bolts. A little later I cross the road and climb slightly up. There I come to a basin in which clear gray, calcareous groundwater is collected. Down a flight of stairs and I am amazed. This is one of my favorite places in the Mullerthal! The limy water is led across a mossy rock, from where it rains in a clear blue pool in dozens of small trickle streams. The rock itself has all kinds of shades, red and black and gray and brown. With the green moss it is a beautiful spectacle. I take pictures and reluctantly resume the route. This is why I hike. Although the forest is not damp, the path continues across a boardwalk. A stream happily ripples along. There are still rocks, but not as many and as spectacular as on loop two. I smell rain in the air and am not surprised when it starts to drizzle. Fortunately, I walk dry under the trees and when I pass through a narrow valley whose slope is almost bare, the water is more refreshing than annoying. Every now and then I leave the forest, once past a horse pasture and vegetable garden, where I rest on a picnic bench. From a hill I have a view of the landscape, but it is too little wild, too raked. I miss the feeling of being immersed in nature, not seeing a road or village for days. The freedom that real wilderness brings, being on your own. I follow a grassy path to a road, cross it and descend again to the forest. There I see a deer for the first time this vacation, although I wonder if it is a deer, given the markings. The animal does not have an even brown head, but white stripes above the eyes. A little later, when I descend through a narrow gorge, I hear something shooting away above me. A stone rolls down. It is too big for a blackbird scurrying through the leaves for insects. I pay close attention and look up as I slowly walk on. And there is another deer, but it quickly shoots away between the trees. Every now and then I meet other hikers. Dutch, Belgians, French. I hardly know in which language to greet them, especially since Luxembourg itself has no fewer than three official languages: Luxembourg, German and French. Larochette is not far anymore. The extra loop runs along the main route for a while, but fortunately not too long. This time I will save the extra loop for a separate day, because it is too long to add immediately.

Day 5: Loop 3 + loop B - Larochette - Mullerthal 33 km
From the pleasant square in Larochette I climb up the back gardens of a few houses. A viewpoint gives me a great view of the ruin of a castle from sometime before the 12th century which was destroyed by fire in 1565. Two farmers decide to bring in the harvest today and their harvesters howl monotonously through the forest. I climb a hill with meadows full of red-and-white cows. Stretches of field and forest alternate. I keep walking and get to the point where the extra loop joins the main trail, earlier than expected. It only runs together for two kilometers and it is also an attractive piece of forest with a stream, so I don't mind hiking this part twice. This time I will not regret the extra loop. It goes almost all the way through the forest. I climb, cross a road and past a campsite with wooden teepees and a totem pole. Is that still acceptable nowadays? There are many rocks and few hikers. Streams end up in a strange lake with stagnant water and a dirty layer of oil on it. And yet the brook on the other side of the lake flows just as clearly. After a stretch across a field in the scorching sun, the shade of the forest is very welcome. I hike briskly and am soon back at the edge of Beaufort, where I pick up the main route again. I arrive at the ruin of Burg Beaufort from 1192. Parts are still intact and I am tempted to look inside. And if I hadn't dropped my toothbrush in the toilet bowl yesterday, I sure would have. But the supermarket in Echternach closes pretty early, so I have to keep going. After a piece of just nice forest it is noticeable that I am approaching Mullerthal again, the most beautiful part of Luxembourg in the wide area. A stream starts and falls spectacularly across the rocks. The play of water, light, rocks and forest is fascinating. I meet some more hikers and mountain bikers. The last stretch goes past meadows and the forest edge back to Mullerthal, where one bus is too early and the other too late: just right! I am in Echternach very quickly. One toothbrush richer, I dip my feet in the cold water of the Sure, while little grebes dive for food and kingfishers skim the water like swallows.

Day 6: Loop A - Larochette, 23 km
There is an organized hike in Heffingen. From the bus I see signs to the start, "randonnee". The temptation is great, but the bus continues. It’s still early and I do not know what the distance is or what time the start office opens. I let myself be carried away, although it seriously itches. I have breakfast in Larochette’s square and hit the road. The castle I saw yesterday remains hidden behind houses and a little later I arrive in the forest via some stairs. There are signs of a mountain bike tour, but there are no cyclists yet. The wide forest road is not very exciting, but I feel at home in the deeply scented pine forest. It is wonderfully fresh, the pungent coolness of an autumn day. After the forest I come across a sign that the road is closed to hikers. Fortunately, there is no work on Saturday. I step around the crush barrier and am amazed at an excavator parked awkwardly across the road. A moment later I see why. A deep hole has been dug along the entire width of the road. I can pass through the verge, but if it had not been Saturday, I certainly would not have been allowed to pass. Rocks and narrow gorges reappear just before Nommern. This path is definitely worth it. Where I barely took pictures during the first kilometers, I do so now. We don't have such exciting paths in the Netherlands. Somewhere in the forest I pass a Celtic fortress, although it is hardly recognizable. I have to refresh my history, I notice. Celts, here in Luxembourg? Nommern is a small village that exudes a languid atmosphere. A cross to thank them for being spared the plague. There is also plenty of open land and it gets warm quickly. I'm glad I started early. Just before Medernach I notice that I am walking on an old railway track. It is a narrow slope high above the surrounding forest. The loop is nice and quiet and I don't meet many hikers.

Day 7: Loop D - Junglinster, 32 km
By bus I easily get to Junglinster, a large industrial city with gray houses and a large bus station. It takes a while to find the route, which mainly runs through backstreets. A man walking his dog shows me the way and a moment later I follow the orange markings on a semi-paved country road between fields and meadows. A large hedge provides shade, which is great, because it is another lovely late summer day with a radiantly clear sky. The N11 buzzes in the distance and I cross the N14 no less than four times for the village of Blumenthal, whose name seems to be derived from the goddess of the hunt. Then follows the main route of the Mullerthal Trail, but fortunately that is short. Moreover, I am now in the forest and both a spotted and green woodpecker show themselves well. There are a few desolate ponds with hopeful benches next to them. The route continues on a gravel path through a narrow valley with high rocks, that is never boring. After a short break, I end up in a pine forest surrounded by tall ferns. It walks away easily, although I resist the temptation to take a trip to the rocks every now and then. I do read signs. One of them tells about prehistoric statues carved into a rock. A staircase next to it takes me to the rocks, where I indeed see two figures carved. How archaeologists recognized them as husband and wife is a mystery to me, but it is extaordinary. One figure wears a delicately pleated cloak, the other is more worn and missing his head. According to an information board, it concerns a Gallic nobleman and his wife, who lived here about 25-100 years NC. I blink and wonder if I understand German correctly. These rock statues 2,000 years old? Wow is an understatement. I leave the forest to descend to Altlinster, a small village surrounded by rolling hills, yellow meadows and green grass sprayed. On the other side of the village a steep climb with woods as a reward. The shade is very welcome, because it is warm in the late summer. Shortly afterwards I arrive in Burglinster, where parts of the walls and outbuildings of a castle have fallen into disrepair, but since the restoration from 1969 to 1988 the castle has again sports beautiful towers. Brick encloses the rocks on which the yellow walls rest. This time I am in no hurry and I am taking plenty of time to explore the castle. After a tour through the gardens, I go back into the forest between the ripening corn. The pine needles are nice and soft on my feet. According to the guide book there are no other notable points and that is correct. It is lovely forest with an occasional tropical piece of open field. The road undulates with the hills and only just before Junglinster do I meet people again. People are BBQing at a pavilion and it smells delicious. The last part goes along a road, but when I stop for a moment I hear something crackling. I prick up my ears but don't see anything. Could it be the tree seeds bursting open? On the horizon I see three enormous red and white masts and for a moment I doubt whether I will end up in the right city. I didn't see those masts on the way there. But just past the yellow-pink church I recognize the road as my starting point for this morning. All in all a nice and charming hike, but not wild enough by far. Hopefully the virus will be eradicated next year, because as beautiful as Luxembourg was, an adventure it is not.