Malerweg (2014)
Spectacular rock formations in Saxon Switzerland

The Bastei is the highlight of Saxon Switzerland, a special area with deep gorges and bizarre rock formations with Neurathen Castle on top. You can easily reach the castle from Dresden, but it is more fun to explore a larger area on foot along the Malerweg, named after the many painters. The 112 km long route runs in a large loop from the Liebethal to Pirna and was voted the most beautiful hike in Germany in 2007.

Day 1: Liebethal - Hohnstein, 23 km
When we get off in Liebethal from the travel guide Theo's van, a poison-green lizard scurries away. It resists our attempts to photograph it and shyly crawls away under the leaves at the bus stop. While the Polizei stops in the narrow street next to the wrongly parked van (whoops!), we hike to the start of the Malerweg: a parking lot near the river Wesenitz. It is an idyllic stream with overgrown banks and rocks that tower intimidatingly high above us. The colors vary from warm yellow sandstone to the cold and gray of hard rock. We start slowly, with a lovely mud path on which a family with a pram is also plodding along. The air smells mossy and wet. Only Just started and we are already enjoying ourselves. Where the mud ends a concrete path above the water begins, and runs past a ruin. I'm betting on a paper mill. Still strange, in the middle of nature, without a supply road for freight traffic. After a kilometer we come to the statue of Richard Wagner, who liked to visit nearby Lochmüle. While one of his compositions blares from a loudspeaker, we watch the 12,5 meter high monstosity. The composer with a sturdy jaw and an impressive chest looks made out of plastic and doesn't appeal to me. I exchange the pompous music for the sweet rippling of water and walk on. Shortly afterwards there is a house across our path, which seems to have run away from a theme park with its artistically weathered walls. It is the Lochmühle and we enter Mühlsdorf past the old mill. The village is very quiet, two neighbors talk to each other from behind their garden fences and trees are decorated with colored plastic Easter eggs. When we leave the village, it is noticeable that the Germans mark the route rather impractically. The signpost is on the street where you need to be, and does not point where you need to go from the street you are on. Now that we know, it’s no longer a problem and we follow the route effortlessly through the fields. Above a meadow we see an enormous bird of prey, which Harry recognizes as a red kite. Dirk is nowhere to be seen anymore. Do we have to worry? We hike on, trusting he will find his way. It is quite warm and I am happy with the shade and soft soil of the forest. The route booklet already warns us: 'nun geht es steil hinab'. Steep is an understatement. It's a staircase of uneven rocks straight down. With difficulty we navigate downwards, where we encounter a few hikers who follow the route in the opposite direction. We cross a stream, a railway and a road. A grassy path leads us through the golden yellow rapeseed fields to the village of Lohmen, whose church tower can already be seen from a distance. Dirk is slowly catching up with us. On the other side of the village we hike back into the forest and I like that better than the houses. We pass through a beautiful gorge, the walls of which tower high above us. In one place we see that a rock wall has recently collapsed. Trees have been freshly cut and lie upside down over a towering boulder. In another place, such a large boulder has fallen into the gorge, precisely where it is narrow enough to stop halfway. We pass underneath it and although we hardly have to bend our heads, we do so anyway. As we get closer to Wehlen, the number of tourists increases. Whole families picnic in the fine sand of a dry streambed. Eventually we arrive at a restaurant where we enjoy a hearty lunch with brätwurst. After this we enter Wehlen, where we take a short stroll along the Elbe. We already have a beautiful view from below, but of course we get to climb again to admire the river from above. And yes, it is certainly worth it. The river stretches like a ribbon to the horizon. We see table mountains in the distance, a parking lot full of cars of people who have taken the ferry to the Bastei, the endless green carpet of the surrounding forest. When it gets flat again, I take a breather, even though I have good physical condition. The path widens and we arrive at an old gaststätte. The number of tourists is constantly increasing, a sign that we are approaching the Bastei, one of the major attractions of this area. The 305-meter-high rock formation has been admired for over 200 years. In 1824 a wooden bridge was constructed to make the rocks more accessible. Years later, in 1851, the wooden bridge was replaced by a sandstone bridge, which is an attraction in itself. At the Bastei there is also a hotel and here we struggle through crowds to get to the rocks. Our efforts are rewarded with a spectacular view. Rocks protrude like pillars from the forest, weathered and broken. Not only are the shapes beautiful, but the size is downright intimidating. You feel so small as a human being between these natural forces. Here and there climbers are busy scaling the rocks. Just looking at it makes me fearful of heights. Like a little spider thy crawl up the huge rock wall, secured by a thin rope. We hike on and pass the ruins of an old castle, Felsenburg Neurathen. Why anyone would want to build a castle in this inaccessible place is a mystery to me. Life must have been difficult here. Nevertheless, the castle is mentioned in documents from the year 1,289. A small entrance fee is requested and I pay up. Not so much because of the ruin itself, but because of the beautiful view that you have from the ladders and stairs of the Bastei. We walk past old cannonballs and a cistern, in which water was collected and yet it is mainly the rocks that continue to attract attention. After an hour of wandering, we continue. This time we go down to Kurort Rathen. Just before the seaside resort we turn to a lake full of pedal boats and the river Grünsbach. A gray wagtail brushes its feathers on a twig in the water. A small staircase follows, after which we take a break in Rathewalde. Refreshed, we briefly walk along a busy road, which I have little regard for. I prefer to look to the right, where in the distance we see beautiful table mountains. Fortunately we are soon allowed to re-enter the forest. There the route takes us through the Wolfslucht, a steel staircase of 200 steps, straight through the rocks. Fortunately we don't have to climb the stairs, we descend them. Now we are getting closer to our end point, Hohnstein. There is a kind of castle and in the middle of the forest we come across a wall and old gate. Stranger still is the narrow chapel, no more than one and a half meters wide, which is stuck against a rock wall just outside the village. Would that really ever have been used for church services? Then we walk into the village and this first, fantastic day is really over.

Day 2: Hohnstein - Lichtenhainer Wasserfall, 27 km
We descend again past the narrow chapel to the forest. It is nice and cool today and apart from a few bits of false flat the route is not very demanding. We hike through a pine forest, where every now and then we encounter boulders, the size of a house. And then we probably only see half, because most of it is below the surface, like an iceberg. Of course I have to explore a side path. We come to a large overhanging rock, over which water drips. Like a saw, the moisture has penetrated the soft sandstone. A fascinating sight. A little further on we come across a slowworm on the path,  still warming up after the cold night. After 5 km we arrive at a beer garden. Although it is still early, we stop for a drink, because the view from the terrace is fantastic. Far in the distance we see Schrammstein, another beautiful collection of rocks and the point I am looking forward to most today. After the beer garden there is a steep staircase down. Slowly and carefully placing our feet we descend. We cross a road and at a campsite we go up steeply again. Sometimes I pause to admire the rocks, some of which have a severe case of pimples, full of bumps and pits. Others have strange straight scratches. Fault lines? It looks mysterious. In Waitzdorf we catch our breath at a picnic spot. Fortunately, the route continues on quiet grassy paths, so we can recover for a while. Very decadently we skip the two viewpoints. Been there, done that. We slowly descend again, until we reach a stream that we follow to Kohlmühle. We have lunch there in a small tent, owned by someone who was in the German Army and apparently still proud of it. Calendars that are issued to Ritterkreuz wearers hang on the wall. On the front men Nazi uniform. The calendars are recent, from 2008 to 2013, and to be honest, I would rather have walked on to eat a sandwich somewhere under a tree than eat lunch at a Nazi’s place.After lunch we continue past an old coal mining factory and cross a railway line. We follow a narrow path along the track and climb a hill to the sports fields of Altendorf, where Theo is waiting for us with cookies. Then we take the wrong turn, because we turn out to have gone off the route earlier. I follow the map in my guide, but it turns out to be out of date. Fortunately, we quickly find the route again. The air is getting dark and it is getting cooler too. One splash of rain plagues us, but does not persist. In the distance we see the rocks of Schrammstein, where we are on our way. At the back of the village there is a path of which we are unsure whether it is closed or not. We decide to follow the way markers and arrive at a steep stream bed that we follow downwards. We clamber over tree trunks and stones. Cool! Fortunately, there are some normal stairs at the end and then we hike on a forest path to a road with tram tracks of a historic tram that still runs here from time to time. We cross the road at a campsite and then go up steeply again. We notice that we are again at a tourist trap, because slowly it is getting busier on the forest paths. Fortunately, it never gets as busy as at the Bastei, probably because you can't get here by car and you still have to walk quite a bit. After a while we reach a few houses in the middle of the forest and enter the national park. The paths are wide and easy, the rocks that occasionally rest between the trees get bigger and bigger. Then we come to the point where the side trail to viewpoint Schrammstein is. I'm going for sure, no two ways about it. Harry and Tine also come along. It is extraordinary that the older participants in our group are the most adventurous. But the others are tired and ignore the viewpoint. They decide to wait for us, expecting that the viewpoint is not far and we will be back within half an hour. That is not quite the case. You can only climb the route to Schrammstein in one direction and it ís a climb. It starts with a narrow ledge on a rock just one foot wide. An iron bracket gives us a grip. We come to a ladder, the first of many. The rocks now and then barely diverge far enough to let us through. We ask our tired legs to carry us upwards for at least half an hour to an hour. Then finally there’s light. We are up, but we can go even further. Forward now. On top of the rock a path has been carved to a viewpoint. Many hiking boots have worn out the soft rock until I can place my New Balance exactly in the groove. We have to bridge about 30 centimeters of nothing, and it is still exciting. The iron railing keeps fear at bay. We are now really on one of the highest rocks in the area and the view is breathtaking. It is so high and the forests below us so low. And yet the rocks a little further on are at eye level. A narrow strip of stone that towers over the surrounding landscape. Here and there trees cling to thin layers of earth. In the distance we see villages, subordinate to the beautiful nature that dominates here. This is what we climbed for, this is what we do it for. This view makes the whole trip worthwhile.After a while we realize that we have stayed longer than we expected in advance and that people are waiting for us downstairs. Because it is impossible for two people to pass each other on the narrow stairs, we are not allowed to go down the same way. So we take the other route back. It bends, meanders and descends, until we no longer know where exactly we came from. Where exactly is the way up? After a last set of steep steps down we have forest floor under our feet again. But we are not back on the Mahlerweg just yet. We set out and keep to the right, because we follow the rock wall to the point where we left the others. Would they still be there? Or have they already gone on? We decide not to take the risk and go back. That is also a pretty fun path with a second spectacular viewpoint where the path continues between low rocks, where you can’t be too wide to pass through. There are ladders going up and down. After what feels like about 5 kilometers, we are back at the side trail. There’s no one to be seen. Back then, the way we came. This time up the stairs. I know what I prefer to do. The viewpoint, where we stop to admire the view, even though the afternoon is approaching its end. The last kilometers are on a wide gravel road through the forest. We have a decent pace, but I still have to hold back for Harry and Tine. I wonder what time the sun sets. A question you don't want to ask yourself when you're in the mountains. Eventually we come to an asphalt road, which we follow to a restaurant. Isis has just stepped outside and is happy to see us. Theo turns out to have driven to the end point to see if we are there already. Ruud is in the tram that will soon be leaving, but we decide to wait for Theo together. We would have finished in Neumannmühle today, but we will add that part tomorrow. Enough for today.

Day 3: Lichtenhainer Wasserfall - Krippen, 27 km
 After the tram stop we cross an old stone bridge and walk briefly along a singing stream. Soon there is a considerable climb to Kuhstal, a huge rock arch we walk underneath to a beautiful view of a valley. We walk back down the steep stairs. Then we come to a wide forest road with several other hikers. Another asphalt road along a stream. Fortunately it does not take us long before we get to hike on a forest path again. To our left, large nets protect cars from falling rocks. Not exactly reassuring as we are on the wrong side of the nets. The route is initially fairly flat, but then we climb sharply again. Isis has brought her trekking poles for the first time and notices they do make hiking a lot easier. We reach the Goldsteinaussicht, where we again have a magnificent view of rocks embraced by forest. We continue to the top, where we rest on a terrace. Wonderful. After a short break we continue. A flight of stairs, steeply down. Later the path turns into stones, each at a different angle or simply worn round. I am so happy that it’s dry at the moment. It difficult enough already. Whether it will stay dry is still up for debate. The sky darkens and rumbles in the distance. We descend through the forest until we reach Schmilka, where narrow streets of half-timbered houses and tourist shops take us to the Elbe. Theo is waiting for us there with lunch. After we have finished eating, we cross the river with a ferry. For some reason I expect that the other shore will be less spectacular, that we will not encounter any big rocks anymore and that we will now mainly cross the countryside towards the end point in Pirna. How wrong could I be.On the other side we walk along the water for a while, where we notice how high above us reed is still hanging in the branches. An old newspaper article about the high water level of 2002 hung on the cabin of the ferry and that was no exaggeration. We dive under the railway to Dresden and head into the forest. We run into a dilemma there. A T-junction and no marking to be seen. Ultimately we opt for the left and that turns out to be correct. We leave the forest, walk past a grain field and behind the village Reinhardtsdorf-Schöna. Now we can see the table mountain up close, a strange, misty bump in the landscape. How does the mountain end up here, in the otherwise flat landscape? What is the part of a mountain range and has the rest worn away? Meanwhile, it is starting to drip seriously and we are wondering  whether we should take out our ponchos. When we exchange the village for a grassy path to the Wolfsberg, it starts to rain and we bundle up well. At the ‘top’ there is a covered picnic bench, where we wait until the worst shower is over. Then walk down again to the Reinhardtsdorf section of Reinhardtsdorf-Schöna. Here too Easter is celebrated extensively, with another richly decorated tree and painted panels. Just before Krippen we make a turn along a ridge, until we reach a parking lot where Theo is waiting for us again with the van.

Day 4: Krippen - Weissig, 25 km
 The morning starts damp and it is precisely in the mountains that that gives rise to those mysterious blue distances. Today I borrowed the trekking poles from Isis and I notice that they certainly do makes a difference. Not in terms of pace, but in terms of stability and stress on the knees. We go up a forest path and soon I am in the lead. I fly across the path and it is wonderful, but for a fire salamander I still pause. The black creature with bright yellow spots all over its body looks dangerous. But it is still early and cold, which means that they are slow and sluggish. Slow enough to take a picture. As we walk on, we keep encountering fire salamanders, five, six, seven. So much so that at a certain point we hardly give them a second glance. We did not see them the entire vacation and only on this stretch countless newts. How glorious! At my fast pace I miss a way mark and end up on the road to Papstdorf. We stop, look at the map and then go back a bit. A staircase takes us back to the very same road, where we climb to Kleinhennersdorf and from there continue on through the forest. We reach a viewpoint, the cafe is not yet open, but from the terrace we have a fantastic view. I don't take many pictures today, because this afternoon we will reach Königstein Castle, which is so beautiful that it overshadows all other images. Most of our group are too tired to visit the castle. That's why I alone hike ahead so I have enough time to enjoy the site. It takes longer than expected to get to the castle. First there is a big climb across viewpoint Gohrisch, complete with the rocky paths, stairs and climbs that I enjoyed so much in recent days. On the other side of the Elbe I see the rocks that we explored on the way there. Unfortunately I don't see the Bastei, although I must have passed it. I can see a building high in the mountains. Maybe the hotel? The route remains beautiful every moment. A long staircase leads to the rocks, where we literally walk over the tops of the rocks. A path has been carved across the rock, but without the iron gates on either side, I don't know if I would dare to go further. The forest is at our feet, just like that abyss you don't want to fall into. Wooden planks bridge the places where the rocks have left space for gravity. It is exciting to walk here, wonderful, adventurous. It can't last me long enough. Unfortunately it’s over in no time and normal forest paths follow again. I continue to Kurort Gohrisch, where the water levels are indicated on a wall. The 2002 flood was not even highest. On March 1, 1845, the water reached the top of the 1st floor windows. How high would that be? Four, five meters? Too much to imagine and the damage will have been enormous. The flood is known as the Saxon Flood, and at such an impressive height, it must have looked a lot like one.After I get to climb again to get to the Pfaffenstein viewpoint. There is a lot of forest, but also a view of the table mountains in the area. We can also see the Köningstein Fortress, on its very own table mountain. From the village of Köningstein it’s a steep climb to the fortress and I am now very happy with the borrowed trekking poles. The path leads across the parking lot in front of the entrance. Here I turn to the till and a moment later I am standing with three others and a lift boy in livery in a large steel lift that takes me 42 meters higher, to the top of the fort. It is truly a city in itself, with around 50 buildings, some of which are 400 years old. I walk to the side that overlooks the Elbe, because from my last visit I remember that the view is spectacular. And it shows again. It is precisely here that the Elbe makes a bend, so that you can see the river coming and leaving. You can see for miles, a landscape like a puzzle picture. Green, a spectacular hill, small Lego villages. I sigh with delight. And then there are the strange buildings and turrets. A watchtower just outside the walls, not built against the wall, but on a rock tens of meters below, so that a narrow gate is formed. The yellow Friedrichsburch, an elegant reception hall with its graceful staircases. Even the impressive cannons are beautifully decorated. Unbelievable to think that this place has been a castle since about 1200, expanded, changed and adapted over the centuries. Used as a hunting lodge, prison, country retreat, to secure art treasures and to harbor prisoners of war. So many centuries of history and here you can feel them all. The stones feel old. Steps worn by the footsteps of long-lost soldiers. Today it’s the most frequented tourist attraction in Saxony and it shows. It’s busy. You cannot pass each other on the narrow paths along the battlements and we slowly shuffle along. To the place where chimney sweep Sebastian Abratzky climbed the outer wall in 1848. To the 152 meter deep well, the deepest well in all of Europe. I don't want to make the others wait too long, so I skip the many museums on the property. I leave the fort through the intimidating gate with the stone Medusa, a snake-wreathed head. I walk back to the parking lot along the outer walls to resume the route there. I have no idea where the others are, in front of or behind. Fortunately, the route is now easy. Through a tunnel I walk under a major road, happily into the forest again. I cross the village of Thürmsdorf parallel to the Elbe. In the next village there’s apparently a detour, but below I spot Theo's van. And I actually turn out to be the first one there. Dirk hitched a ride because of knee problems and together we wait for the others.

Day 5: Weissig - Pirna 14, km
The intention was to hike this path in four days, but that is too ambitious if you also want to enjoy the hike. That is why we walk the last kilometers today. From Weissig we cross a bend in the river and walk past a deer park to Pötzscha. From there we end up in Naundorf and then continue parallel to the Elbe. This part of the forest is quite humid and we are glad it’s dry. The river runs deep below us, our view of it obstructed by trees. Then we come to a piece of forest where it’s lighter, the trees are cut off at eye level. A while ago, because they are starting to sprout again. Yet it is impressive to witness the consequences of this natural disaster. A storm, a whirlwind or something else? We do not know. One tree lies still across the path and we crawl underneath, as we are accustomed to do. At the hamlet of Niedervolgelgesang we reach the track and walk underneath to hike walk along the river for real now. It’s tropically warm, it was much more comfortable in the forest. A few cars drive here, but it is busier with cyclists and a few inline skaters. We continue in this way until we reach the outskirts of Pirna. There we make a arc, so we walk through a park along the old city wall. Here too some rocks. At the end of the path the center with the beautiful town hall awaits. It's just a pity that the center is not car-free, so you can enjoy the buildings unhindered. Still, this is a beautiful trail and I recommend it to everyone.